Celebrating Truffles at Three Williams
613A Elizabeth St, Redfern NSW 2016
(02) 9698 1111
Whether its Drake and Nicki lyrics or weekend getaway episodes of the Real Housewives, there comes a time in everyone’s life when truffles are a be all and end all obsession. The humble French fungus known for its strong, overpowering taste, overpriced status, dark appearance and rigorous cultivation process, is a delicacy few find in Australian cafes; often reserved for the upper-echelons of Sydney’s dining scene.
Thankfully for us – not anymore.
Cue the Three Williams. An ambient, darkly-lit, equestrian brown leather-boothed Redfern oasis on Elizabeth Street; whose forthcoming ‘Celebrating Truffles’ Menu, brings delicate, seasonal ingredients to the masses in the best way possible. Comprising of breakfast and lunch options, it’s the kind of place you sit down thinking it’s for one meal, only to seriously consider a second, third or fourth thereafter.
We begin our culinary journey with Mushroom Croquettes of Porcini infused Arborio rice, porcini and shiitake mushroom, tasty cheese, brie, chives, truffle oil, fresh truffle and truffle mayo. Crunchy on the outside, moist on the inside; these prime the palate for Crispy Truffle Skin Chicken Breast with Jerusalem artichoke puree, sautéed cavolo nero, chestnut and kombu beurre noisette (fancy French for brown butter), Jerusalem artichoke chips and fresh truffle. The heartiest on the menu, the portion is substantial and overflowing with flavour. Opt for a side of Waffle Fries. The greasy goodness of a three cheese sauce, fresh truffle and chives makes it the perfect in-between courses op and/or rainy day, cheat day, any day for that matter snack.
However, the highlight of the menu has to be the Roasted Peking Duck Angel Hair Pasta, lovingly handmade with ginger infused cream sauce, parsley, fresh truffle and fried onion crumb. Cooked perfectly, the dish was faultless – the ginger popping up now and again against the duck; adding depth and an unexpected zest to the menu as a whole.
As our smooth descent into food coma continues, the menu attempts a glorious take on everyone’s second-favourite breakfast option – the sourdough crumpet. Topped with mandarin, truffle ricotta, hazelnuts, thyme and truffle infused Tasmanian blossom honey, fresh truffle and edible flowers. The ricotta is lighter than most, quaffed like an overzealous English lady and smooth; blending into the tiny holes of the dense bread.
To end, we are gifted with an Augustus Gloop-esque wonderland of Truffle Ice-Cream and Hazelnuts amidst chocolate cake, hazelnut cream, caramel popcorn crumb, gold dust feuilletine, crispearls, hazelnuts, edible flowers and fresh truffle. The Crispearls are addictive and the ice-cream retains its shape as you madly snap photos of what is quite honestly one of the most beautifully constructed deserts around…
It’s here that I point out the true pinnacle of the menu – the generous but strategic use of Truffle. Whilst Sydney has seen numerous menu-homages similar the Three Williams team, led by Jacqui Ektoros, find a beautiful balance between flavours, making it possible to have a three course truffle-fest without feeling overdone or overworked. Much like the place as a whole, this menu is no one hit wonder. Grab a friend, share the meals, and get the most out of these honest and complex combinations of ingredients. We know we’ll be back for morning delights like a Herbed Mushroom Omelette and Asparagus and Mushroom Bruschetta.